I take the output from this into a M-Audio 2496 PCI soundcard (about $200) in a PC running Windows XP. To replace this with an equivalent vinyl replay system today would cost many thousands of £/$/€. The sound quality of this setup is easily a match for CD and is astonishingly low noise and high dynamic range for an LP system. This feeds a Naim NAC72 pre-amp, which has a superb vinyl stage, powered by the Naim Hi-Cap power supply.
To make the recording I use my much loved 20 year old Linn LP12 “Sondek” turntable with Ekos tone arm and (rather newer) AudioTechnica ATOC9 Mk2 cartridge. The most important thing to spend time and money on is your analogue replay equipment closely followed by a high quality, low noise ADC and/or sound card. Just keep the phrase “rubbish in, rubbish out” in your mind when sorting out your equipment and workflow. He and I are old school UK vinyl audiophiles with, coincidentally, very similar systems – we have virtually identical hardware – but I have a slightly different take on the digitising process. I've been digitising vinyl as a hobby since 1994Clive B was a great help to me when I started digitising LPs in 2008 just after I bought my Duet. Sort of shows that "digital sounding" recordings are due to something other than the inherent nature of digital. The interesting thing about transferring vinyl to digital is that if you do a good job, the resulting digital tracks sound like analogue. It does a great job applying the RIAA curve, by the way.
DECLICKING IN AMADEUS PRO SOFTWARE
Of course, for this you need software that allows manually setting the "automatic" levels of noise reduction functions. I find that with this approach I don't ruin the sound of my recordings, only improve them. I just try to reduce volume with automatic tools, not eliminate them. Example: I don't try to get rid of all the hiss, I just try to reduce it so it isn't so noticeable. I personally find that automatic tools can work well if you apply very light processing. If you thing the file needs further processing, do it. What's left is tagging, splitting tracks, etc. If you think it sounds good you are done with the audio forensics. Get rid of or reduce major pops, clicks, and noises.Ĥ. So what I recommend is: get a phono pre that gives you the option of turning off the RIAA curve for recording purposes - Bellari actually makes one like that (you can of course use it for vinyl playback with the RIAA curve turned on). At least one with both.Īs far as the RIAA curve: if you are going digital, there is a lot of software around that will apply the RIAA curve for you to your file, and good software will do it better and more accurately than just about ANY hardware phono preamp. I don't remember their models exactly, but they make phono preamps with USB and tube output.
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